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To prepare an exceptional cup of coffee, two essential prerequisites are
required: that the finest quality of green coffee beans are used, and that these
are fresh roasted. Roasted coffee is an extremely perishable product. It is
almost as sensitive as the most perishable produce found in the market. Within
two weeks from the roast date, 50-60% of the flavor is lost. However,
sophisticated packaging technology can reasonably extend the shelf life to
several months. Once a package is opened, however, the clock starts ticking on
the shelf life of coffee.
Roasting
Roasting is the last and most important step in a long sequence of processing
that the beans go through after they are harvested. Coffee does not grow ready
to use. All coffee must be roasted before it can be ground and brewed.
Unroasted coffee is referred to as "green coffee." In contrast to roasted
coffee, green coffee has a shelf life of about a year. Green coffee beans are
small, dense and very hard. They may be unrecognizable to those outside the
coffee trade. Green coffee has a grass-like smell. It bears little resemblance
in appearance or flavor to what we commonly think of as coffee beans. It is the
process of roasting which produces the characteristic flavor and wonderful aroma
we know as coffee.
The Roasting Process
Generally speaking, the process of coffee roasting is a time-temperature
dependent process whereby physical and chemical changes are induced in the green
coffee. The average temperatures range from 375 degrees to 450 degrees for a
period of 8 to 20 minutes depending on the volume of beans in the roaster. When
the green beans are loaded into the roaster they drop into the roasting chamber,
a rotating cylinder filled with internal paddles that keep the coffee tumbling
over itself. Convective hot air and radiant heat are the most common heat
sources.
In the first stages of the roast the green beans gradually yellow. The
temperature is raised to the boiling point of water, driving off the moisture in
the beans. As the moisture trapped in the bean turns to steam, it bursts the
cellular structure of the bean so abruptly that the bean swells with an audible
crack or popping sound. This loss of moisture as well as other volatile
compounds reduces the weight of the bean by 14-23%, and increases its size by
40- 60%. This near doubling of the size of the bean decreases its density.
In the second stage of the roast, after the removal of moisture, proper roasting
begins. As the temperature of the bean escalates, a complex series of chemical
transformations occurs. This process is called pyrolysis. "Pyro" is Greek for
fire or heat. Pyrolysis, then, is the metamorphosis by heat of the chemical
components in the bean.
There are literally hundreds of chemical compounds that make up the composition
of green coffee. Among these are oils, complex polysaccharides, sugars,
starches, fats, waxes, and others. Some of these are broken down by the heat and
driven off. Many compounds extracted during brewing are not present in green
coffee at all. Rather, they develop as the coffee is roasted. Some are starches
which are converted into sugar. The sugar, when caramelized, accounts in part
for the brown color of the coffee.
As roasting progresses, additional complex proteins and organic acids are broken
down and transformed. The bean develops further in size, and becomes a darker
brown. To produce the darker roasts, the beans are left in the roaster longer.
As the temperature continues to build, the aromatic oils volarilize and boil
toward the surface, causing a second crack or popping.
Finally the roastmaster determines that the roast is done. The beans are emptied
from the roasting drum into the cooling bin. In the cooling bin the beans are
cooled down rapidly to stop further development and loss of aromatics.
The Roastmaster
It is said that coffee roasting is an art form. The skilled roastmaster must
know his coffees intimately and take into consideration the natural properties
possessed by each type of coffee. Each coffee variety has its own unique flavor
characteristics depending on the elements of the environment that created it.
The performance of the roastmaster is physically demanding. It requires enormous
patience, and that the senses be acutely tuned. The roastmaster must hear how
the roast pops, smell the developing aromas, and identify the right shades of
color. He draws upon experience and knowledge to properly adjust airflow, time
and temperature while the roast is in progress.
It is important not to roast too quickly. A bean scorched or charred on the
outside may yet be unroasted on the inside. It is equally important not to roast
too slowly at low temperatures, since this bakes the bean, leaving it
underdeveloped and with a flat flavor. While the beans are tumbling in the
roasting drum, he inserts a sample puller to draw off small samples for closer
inspection. He makes the final judgment on the basis of bean development and
surface color.
Good timing is important throughout the roast but it becomes critical when a
roast is at its peak. It is a split second decision when the roast is done. A
second too soon and the roast could fall short of perfection. A second too late,
and the roast could be lost.
The roastmaster is not just a machine operator. He must skillfully manipulate
the roaster as a tool to bring each coffee to the precise point where it offers
optimal flavor potential.
Freshness
Freshness is probably the most misunderstood factor about coffee. The date of
the roast is the key to freshness. Without sophisticated packaging, coffee beans
lose more than half of their flavor within two weeks. After six weeks the oils
become rancid. Exposure to air and moisture accelerates the decomposition of the
flavors. Freezing the beans may stop this decomposition but freezing also
destroys the delicate oils and aromatics. Never freeze a quality fresh roasted
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